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Area Wine History
Since the turn of the century, Michigan has become a homeland for wines and in the last 25 years it has been producing world-class wines. Immigrants to the wilderness of Michigan in the early part of the 19th century settled and quickly turned to farming as a means of subsistence. In the early days, wines were either homegrown and processed "behind the barn" or were a "drink of luxury" imported from back East. However, most alcoholic beverages were in the form of beer or corn whiskey and, at the turn of the century, grapes in Michigan were grown primarily for grape juice. The demand came from Welch’s Grape Juice Co. of New York and commercial vineyards soon began to appear all over southwest Michigan. But Prohibition changed all that. Initially intended to inhibit the use of alcoholic beverages, prohibition actually encouraged the use of wine because it was easy to produce secretly. With the 1933 Repeal of Prohibition, Michigan vineyards began growing grapes for wine-making. Mariano Marconi moved from Canada to Detroit in the early 1930s and began making wine. In 1936, he moved to Paw Paw and formed the Italian Wine Company. The name was changed to St. Julian during World War II when people began taking sides and it became "politically incorrect" to own and operate a company in America named after an enemy nation.
After World War II, the soldiers came home and brought with them a change in taste for wines. They had o the success of Michigan’s wine industry. Another change came due to economic factors, that is, using land in the most efficient way possible. Land costs were rising and it forced many farmers to reevaluate their crops. Most were growing potatoes or cherries and they needed a more intensive crop. Taxes were high and they found that they could sell off some land and use less acreage in producing grapes for wines. The Label
Appellations Michigan has four appellations. The most northern is the Old Mission Peninsula, a narrow strip of land adjacent to Traverse City. It has an elevation of 300 feet and sandy soil that enables the production of many types of fruit. The Leelenau Peninsula appellation is just south and west of the Old Mission Peninsula and covers approximately 350 square miles. It is closer to Lake Michigan and with sandier soil. Over 1000 acres of wine-producing fruit are grown annually. The Lake Michigan shore appellation is the largest, covering 2,000 square miles and producing 12,000 acres of grapes annually. The vineyards of Lemon Creek and St. Julian are located here amidst rolling hills and small lakes. Further north and more inland from Lake Michigan, the Fennville appellation has light, well-drained soils, rolling hills, and regular air flow. The vineyards of Fenn Valley are located there.
Even more important than soil for grape-growing is climate. Our climate is much like that of Europe’s Alsace region of France and Germany. Cooler climates create more acidic-style wines with a crisp character. They are full-bodied and very rich, like Michigan’s strawberries, tomatoes, and apples. Fruits of Michigan are not as big or good-looking as those that are shipped in to our stores in winter from warmer climates but, their qualities shine through in Michigan’s wines. Water All great grape growing, wine-producing areas of the world have one thing in common - a proximity to water. In our state, it’s the proximity to Lake Michigan and the effect it has on fruit-growing. Referred to as the "lake effect," it is essential for production of quality wines. David Braganini of St. Julian Wines said, "All summer long the lake gathers heat and as breezes go across the warm lake you’ll be scraping your windshield in Kalamazoo, but it’ll be warm in Benton Harbor and South Haven because of the breezes coming across the lake. The lake effect works for about 20-25 miles inland." It dampens the harshness of winter, delays the onset of spring, and is the heart of Michigan’s ability to produce fine wine. Winter covers vines with deep snow to protect them from the cold. Spring cools the vines to inhibit their budding so frost can’t damage them. A late frost kills the leaves and grapes can’t ripen. They’re finished for the season. The Grapes But the grapes themselves are the key to success in the production of quality wines. Grapes in Michigan, though able to withstand the cold, do not naturally lend themselves to making superior wines. A solution to the problem came in the 19th century when grape scientists from France who had been studying the many varieties in America took samples to Europe and accidentally introduced some pesky insects to their native crops. Their 1000-year-old vineyards were almost decimated. Thomas Munson, a botanist from Texas, found a solution He grafted European vines onto American roots and, ironically, the European wine industry was saved by American vines. He created a hybrid that was able to withstand disease and was better-adapted to cold climates - the vinifera. Today
Public opinion of Michigan wines has changed for the better due to the European vinifera grape. The best wines come from the best grapes. Another factor is tourism. Since I-94 was built in the late 1950s and an exit ramp was placed at Paw Paw, people from all over the country have wandered into the wineries and visited the tasting centers. My source for this piece was a video given to me by David Braganini called, "Vintage of the North: The Story of Michigan Wines." A closing statement in the video says it all: "Wine entrepreneurs have discovered that the mystique of Michigan wines is embedded in the beauty of its surroundings. Michigan has now earned a respectable place in our nation’s wine market." |
This progressive series was researched and written specifically for the Paw Paw pages by Jim Phillips. Jim is a lifelong Southwest Michigan resident, historian, teacher, Living History Presentor and musician. 
St. Julian is the name of the patron saint of Marconi’s hometown in Italy. Other wineries sprang up like the Paw Paw Wine Company, Bronte Wines and Champagnes, LaSalle, Risdon, Warner, and Tabor Hill.
A label on a bottle of wine tells the type of grape, the year of harvest, the name of the wine seller, where the wine was produced, and the appellation, which is the geographic area where the fruit of the wine was grown.
There are many in our state who work to improve and promote Michigan’s wine industry. On Michigan State University’s campus there is a pilot winery called Spartan Cellars. They have a research lab in which they test and evaluate the quality of Michigan’s wines. There is also the Michigan Wine Council, formed in 1985, of 10 members who determine how appropriated money is spent to benefit the wine industry. Funding is provided for university research, education, and promotion.
All great grape growing, wine-producing areas of the world have one thing in common - a proximity to water. In our state, it’s the proximity to Lake Michigan and the effect it has on
fruit-growing. Referred to as the "lake effect," it is essential for production of quality wines.
The Paw Paw Wine and Harvest Festival offers something for everyone!
